washingtonpost.com: The Occidental Grill

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|1475 Pennsylvania Ave. NW
(202) 783-1475

Hours of Operation and Prices
Open: M-Sat 11:30 am-11pm, Sun noon-9:30 Entrees: $8-$25
Pre-Theater: T-Sat 5:30-7:30, $28

Other Information
• Credit Cards: All major
• Dress: Casual
• Reservations: Recommended
• Nearest Metro: Metro Center
• Parking: Complimentary valet at dinner
• Handicapped accessible

A revival of one of Washington's revered historic restaurants, the new incarnation of the Occidental Grill by now has developed a comforting patina. Its walls are covered with photos of the celebrities of its early era, its booths are well-burnished dark wood, and its menu has a clubby feel, though appealingly updated. It features sandwiches and the ubiquitous "lighter fare," as well as serious grilled meats and fish. The quality of ingredients and preparation is high while the style is unfussy. There's a nice balance between meat-and-potatoes tradition and modern experimentation. Take a hint from that, and concentrate on meat. The mashed potatoes are … la carte but worth making a meal of - or at least having at the expense of dessert. Potatoes - fried or mashed - often save the day here, especially when the entree falls short. The signature dish at lunch from the beginning, though, has been a glamorous twist on the club sandwich, made with grilled swordfish on brioche. Even with some slips in the kitchen, the Occidental Grill is satisfyingly solid. The broad menu, the intelligent service, the interesting list of American wines and even more interesting microbrewed beers set a mood of comfort and tradition.

© Copyright 1998 The Washington Post Company

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